Archive for May, 2006

Blue Burger

Blue Smoke
116 E. 27th (@ b/t Park and Lexington)
New York, NY 10016
(212) 447-7733
[map] [subway directions]
Rating: 4/5

Notes:

- Burger: Blue Smoke offers a very good patty made of high-quality beef seasoned lightly and cooked just as we ordered. This was a delicious, tight, tall burger that tasted of the smokey wood flavor of the barbecue.

- Bun: The bun here is a seeded brioche, which earns extra points for both character and a nice buttery flavor, but ultimately proved to be the wrong bun for a burger this juicy. We knew within the first few bites that the bun wouldn’t be able to hold up to the ample juices dripping onto the plate.

- Garnish: We ordered our burgers topped with cheddar cheese and the “house-smoked bacon,” which probably would have earned better marks had we not just had the best bacon in the world at our last outing at Barmarché. The lettuce, tomato, and fat onion slice were gratuitous, although the pickles added a nice flavor. Since Blue Smoke is all about the barbecue, you get to pick from a selection of better-than-average sauces that are lined up on the table. The sweet and spicy sauce gave the burger a nice tangy kick.

- Mess factor: This is not just your average messy hamburger. This is the kind of sandwich where you find yourself holding onto a slight shred of bun thoroughly sogged with juice, wondering why you don’t just go ahead and pick up the patty with your hands already.

- Fries: The fries were fine – nothing to write home about. Or to write here about, either. Our advice: skip the fries and order a side of delicous macaroni and cheese.

- Price: $13 – eleven for the base burger, and a dollar each for the cheddar and bacon.

- Bordeaux: With no wines from Bordeaux on the menu, we were happy to turn to a California cabernet to help wash down our burger. We chose a 2001 vintage from Koves-Newlan and we were more than delighted with the oaky, fruity flavor of this wine. The wine had plenty of tannins and a creamy texture that we loved. De-f’in-licous.

- Atmosphere: You could definitely take a girl here.

- Overall: We came to Blue Smoke in search of a “5″, because we expected that they would produce a hamburger on par with their St. Louis style spare ribs. The burger was great, but when it comes time for our next visit to East 27th, it will not be for a hamburger. Unfortunately, our next visit will not include the ‘01 Koves-Newlan Cab since we consumed their last bottle, ever. If you find this wine somewhere, get it (and let us know where you found it). Now, a word about the macaroni and cheese: Scrumptious. This is probably the best mac and cheese going — super creamy and loaded with cheese. A destination side dish if there ever was one.

Add comment May 30th, 2006

Bacon!

Barmarché
14 Spring Street (@ Elizabeth)
New York, NY 10012
(212) 219-2399
[map] [subway directions]
Rating: 3/5

Notes:

- Burger: Another fine but somewhat uninspired patty that lost a few points for being overcooked. While we firmly believe the best temperature for cooking a hamburger is medium-rare (and that’s how we request them), both of our burgers arrived medium well, without the slightest hint of pink.

- Bun: A good bun for absorbing (most of) the juices that flowed from this burger, but it lacked anything particularly interesting about its flavor. It was toasted lightly on the outside which gave it a nice crunch and feel.

- Garnish: The burger comes topped with applewood smoked bacon, mushrooms and cheese. We both held off on the mushrooms but loved the smokey, cured flavor of the bacon, which was probably the best part of the meal. On the side came two slices of plum tomato, red onion, iceberg lettuce and a pickle wedge, none of which contributed much to the overall flavor of the sandwich.

- Mess factor: Thanks to the absorbant (but lackluster) bun, no mess factor to consider at all.

- Fries: A+ — second only to the bacon. Crispy on the outside while light and fluffy on the inside. Tossed with fresh garlic that was tasty without being overpowering.

- Price: $13

- Bordeaux: 2003 Chateau Pascaud. Full bodied, able to cleanse the pallet of burger juices and dry enough to make it hardy. One of the better wines we’ve paired with a burger yet.

- Atmosphere: You could definitely take a girl here. In fact, one of us already has.

- Overall: As you can tell from the title of this post, the bacon was the star here. If you like bacon, we recommend getting anything on the menu that includes this smokey, salty treat. The overall burger experience was average, and probably would have dangerously close to falling below average if it weren’t for this delicious topping. The overcooking of the patty did not help at all. Barmarché is nice room that is somewhat dominated by the bar in the front. Subdued lighting, candlelight and a decent soundtrack make for the sort of atmosphere one would expect in NoLiTa. It is worth noting that there are a couple unique tables in the space, one tucked in the back by the window that could seat three or four diners. Another occupies a back corner of the restaurant and can probably seat ten to twelve.

Add comment May 20th, 2006


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