Bacon!

May 20th, 2006 JP Reardon

Barmarché
14 Spring Street (@ Elizabeth)
New York, NY 10012
(212) 219-2399
[map] [subway directions]
Rating: 3/5

Notes:

- Burger: Another fine but somewhat uninspired patty that lost a few points for being overcooked. While we firmly believe the best temperature for cooking a hamburger is medium-rare (and that’s how we request them), both of our burgers arrived medium well, without the slightest hint of pink.

- Bun: A good bun for absorbing (most of) the juices that flowed from this burger, but it lacked anything particularly interesting about its flavor. It was toasted lightly on the outside which gave it a nice crunch and feel.

- Garnish: The burger comes topped with applewood smoked bacon, mushrooms and cheese. We both held off on the mushrooms but loved the smokey, cured flavor of the bacon, which was probably the best part of the meal. On the side came two slices of plum tomato, red onion, iceberg lettuce and a pickle wedge, none of which contributed much to the overall flavor of the sandwich.

- Mess factor: Thanks to the absorbant (but lackluster) bun, no mess factor to consider at all.

- Fries: A+ — second only to the bacon. Crispy on the outside while light and fluffy on the inside. Tossed with fresh garlic that was tasty without being overpowering.

- Price: $13

- Bordeaux: 2003 Chateau Pascaud. Full bodied, able to cleanse the pallet of burger juices and dry enough to make it hardy. One of the better wines we’ve paired with a burger yet.

- Atmosphere: You could definitely take a girl here. In fact, one of us already has.

- Overall: As you can tell from the title of this post, the bacon was the star here. If you like bacon, we recommend getting anything on the menu that includes this smokey, salty treat. The overall burger experience was average, and probably would have dangerously close to falling below average if it weren’t for this delicious topping. The overcooking of the patty did not help at all. Barmarché is nice room that is somewhat dominated by the bar in the front. Subdued lighting, candlelight and a decent soundtrack make for the sort of atmosphere one would expect in NoLiTa. It is worth noting that there are a couple unique tables in the space, one tucked in the back by the window that could seat three or four diners. Another occupies a back corner of the restaurant and can probably seat ten to twelve.

Entry Filed under: 3, NoLiTa