Pickled

October 12th, 2006 jonas

DuMont Restaurant
432 Union Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11206
(718) 486-7717
[map] [subway directions]
Rating: 3/5

Notes:

- Burger: While the patty was cooked exactly as we had requested and had the heft and density of a great burger, it wasn’t particularly flavorful – it lacked in seasoning and in the char-grilled taste that we’ve come to look forward to.

- Bun: A nice brioche bun that had good flavor and texture and held together until the last bite.

- Garnish: The sweet and sour pickle slices were the real stars here. On its own, the pickled onion was also quite tasty but did not add much to the flavor experience of the burger. This was a burger that could have benefited from the sharp bite from a raw onion. The bacon is a necessary accompaniment here, bringing a necessary bit of flavor to an somewhat lacking sandwich.

- Mess factor: Pleasantly little mess for such a larger and juicy burger.

- Fries: Thick fries, crunchy on the outside, chewy in the middle and seasoned with parsley and salt. Nice, if not fantastic.

- Price: $12 (with cheese and fries; bacon adds $1.50).

- Bordeaux: We enjoyed a very nice 2001 Moulis-en-Médoc from Château Biston-Brillette. This was a fruity, dry wine made from a blend of about half Cabernet and Merlot. The clean finish went well with the juicy burger, and the flavor of the wine far outpaced the taste of the sandwich.

- Atmosphere: You could take a girl there.

- Overall: We were a little disappointed by this sandwich. It hardly seemed worthy of inspiring its own establishment (DuMont Burger: 314 Bedford, 718-384-6127). It was definitely a high quality patty, just not tasty enough for our palate. The décor had several elements of the bistro inspired New York dining room: Tile floors, a candle-lit room, off-white walls, and a menu written on a chalk board). But, somehow, it didn’t feel like we were sitting at L’Express or one of its clones. Perhaps it was because they chose to write their menu on a chalkboard as opposed to a mirror. Or, maybe it was the music that shuffled between Peter Tosh, Massive Attack and The Clash. No complaints there and one would never hear Hate & War at French Roast. Then again, it could have been the lack of vintage, French advertisements. A fair number of patrons opted to drink and dine in the back garden on this autumn night leaving the front dining room fairly quiet until a bit later. Unfortunately, the nice vibe and great wine weren’t enough to rescue this burger from a “3”.

Entry Filed under: 3, Williamsburg