Posts filed under '3'
Nice Matin
201 West 79th St (@ Amsterdam)
New York, NY 10024
(212) 873-6423
[map] [subway directions]
Rating: 3/5
Notes:
- Burger: Nice Matin’s famous Five Napkin Burger might not quite live up to it’s name, but it’s definitely enormous, decidedly juicy, has a great meaty flavor, and an even, crumbly texture. And, it was cooked just right.
- Bun: With a burger this juicy, finding a bun that can hold it together is a real challenge. Unfortunately, they’ve chosen a soft, seeded brioche that is no match for the juice that spurts from the first bite of this burger.
- Garnish: Garnished with a sharp, crispy radicchio, a thick slice of beautiful, red tomato, hardly discernable comte cheese, and an overwhelming mound of sautéed, caramelized onions that contributed more to the mess than they did to the flavor.
- Mess factor: Testimony to the juiciness of this burger, after the explosive first bite, the waiter swooped back in and replaced my plate with a dry one. Despite the name, they don’t deliver a quintet of serviettes with this burger and we both ended up with one very fully-used cloth napkin.
- Fries: The fries were the standout here – deliciously flavored with garlic and rosemary and cooked to the perfect level of crispiness.
- Price: $17.50
- Bordeaux: The wine list at Nice Matin is surprisingly extensive – it isn’t the kind of place where we expected a sommelier to rush over to help us choose the right wine to pair with our hamburgers. We declined her assistance and selected a Cousino Macul Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon from 2006. It had a nice, rich fruity flavor that went great with the burger and fries and opened up nicely over the course of the evening.
- Atmosphere: You could take a girl there, if you knew her pretty well.
- Overall: With the recent unveiling of the Five Napkin Burger restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen, we decided to try the original sandwich that inspired it. Unfortunately, we were a little disappointed. The patty itself is as tasty and juicy as we hoped, but the overall experience suffers from too many faults – most pointedly, the messy mass of onions, the flavorless cheese, and the soggy bun. The décor is like an American bistro that has forsaken the traditional bistro trappings – instead of a tile floor or faux-vintage mirrors, Nice Matin is decked out in patterned wallpaper and tall light fixtures that look like giant flat-top mushrooms with light bulbs. The space is light and airy with nice large windows overlooking the corner of 79th and Amsterdam.
June 29th, 2008
Seymour Burton
511 East 5th St (b/t A & B)
New York, NY 10009
(212) 260-1333
[map] [subway directions]
Rating: 3/5
Notes:
- Burger: Seymour Burton’s burger has a lot going for it: a delicious char-grilled flavor, a nice and juicy interior, and a thin layer of sharp white cheddar cheese on top. Unfortunately, none of this can quite make up for the subtle seasonings and therefore subtly disappointing taste of the patty itself. Plus, we both ordered our hamburgers medium-rare, and both came a little overcooked, with not a hint of pink to be found.
- Bun: Served atop an English muffin that started out strong but started to fall apart towards the end – testimony to how juicy the burger was, and how good the bread was at capturing the juices.
- Garnish: Served with a thick slice of red onion, the aforementioned white cheddar cheese, and a slightly garlicky aioli.
- Mess factor: The mess factor increased the further along we got – but all in all, a pretty manageable experience.
- Fries: The burger comes with thin cut, nicely salted fries that were just shy of crispy.
- Price: $13
- Bordeaux: Seymour Burton has a limited wine list that didn’t feature a Bordeaux the night we visited. We opted for a 2004 Cachagua Cabernet from Heller Estates, which had a very hearty fruit flavor and hints of licorice and anisette in the aroma. It was very easy to drink and paired well with the burger and fries.
- Atmosphere: You could take a girl there.
- Overall: Given the positive marks that Seymour Burton consistently receives for their food, we went with high expectations. While the appetizers delivered, we were somewhat underwhelmed by the burger. The restaurant itself has a charming “under construction” kind of appeal, with exposed wood, electrical conduit in plane sight, and the night we visited, actual construction going on above the open kitchen. The menu is written on a huge, wall-sized chalkboard, requiring diners in the far corners of the small restaurant to get up to fully view the offerings. The tables are small and cramped – except for the long community table at the center, which seems like they’ve just thrown in the towel and admitted they couldn’t get two small tables any closer, so they might as well seat everyone together.
June 10th, 2008
The Smith
53 Third Ave (b/t 10th & 11th Street)
New York, NY 10003
(212) 420-9800
[map] [subway directions]
Rating: 3/5
Notes:
- Burger: Unfortunately, The Smith’s burger disappoints in the flavor department – it’s a lackluster patty without an inherently delicious meaty taste or the seasonings to improve upon it.
- Bun: A homemade white bread bun that holds the sandwich together without getting in the way of the burger experience. This would have been more appreciated had the burger delivered a little more zest.
- Garnish: Served with lettuce, thin slices of red onion, white cheddar cheese, a dubious “special sauce” and a delicious layer of smoky, crisp, salty bacon.
- Mess factor: There’s plenty of juice in this burger, but very little mess.
- Fries: The burger comes with a massive pile of thin, crispy fries. Like the burger, unfortunately, they were underwhelmingly seasoned.
- Price: $13 (with everything)
- Bordeaux: The Smith doesn’t serve a Bordeaux, though they do offer a small selection of wines by the carafe and half-carafe, listed on a chalk board behind the bar. Wines are served in a juice glass, and we went with the cabernet, which was satisfying enough to wash down the sandwich and fries.
- Atmosphere: You could take a girl there.
- Overall: The Smith is a rock and roll restaurant, with a combo of indy-label music and classic 80s pop (including Cure and Romeo Void) blaring in the background. The dining room is large and airy, with a wall of windows overlooking 3rd Avenue. The brushed stainless steel bar, milk glass lamps, and wood plank ceiling add a nice touch to the décor. We had a delicious braised bacon and egg appetizer, so there’s no reason to believe that more effort went into the ambiance than the food. However, if we had just had the burgers, we might have left believing just the opposite.
April 28th, 2008
Fairway Café/Steakhouse
2127 Broadway (B’twn 74th & 75th)
New York, NY 10023
(212) 595-1888
[map] [subway directions]
Rating: 3/5
Notes:
- Burger: Fat and juicy. The light seasoning is just enough to bring out the flavor of the beef.
- Bun: Standard, somewhat doughy white bread. Comes dangerously close to being outsized by the patty, but hits the spot.
- Garnish: Bibb lettuce, tomato and red onion. Nothing special, its all about the burger here.
- Mess factor: Surprisingly manageable given the patty to bun ratio.
- Fries: Non-shoestring variety fries with a bit of potato skin left on. Cooked somewhat crispy and modestly seasoned.
- Price: Plain: $8, Cheddar: $9, Bacon & Cheddar: $10
- Bordeaux: 2006 Cloudline Cellars Pinot Noir. This young Pinot had a red fruity flavor that complemented the burger nicely. All this at a nice price.
- Atmosphere: You could take a girl there, perhaps.
- Overall: Dining at Fairway Café is not entirely unlike dining in the natural foods section of a supermarket–without the florescent lights. Even so, they do a good job of cordoning off the dining area from the shopping area. The open kitchen can contribute to the noise level when busy, but not so much that diners can’t carry on a conversation. Fairway could do much to improve the evening atmosphere by dimming the lights just a touch. They were quite busy when we arrived around eight o’clock on a Saturday night. Even so, we were seated immediately. As we were enjoying our burgers and wine, the dining area slowly emptied. So, if one wants to avoid the rush, showing up later isn’t such a bad idea. Anyone who has visited a Burgers & Cupcakes outpost will find the burger at the café very similar if not exactly the same but for the presentation. If you are craving a burger while in the neighborhood, this is a good place to stop. Be aware that weekend days at Fairway Café can be busy, so you might be forced to shop for legumes in the bulk foods section while waiting for a table.
October 27th, 2007
Landmarc Restaurant
179 West Broadway
New York, NY 10013
(212) 243-3883
[map] [subway directions]
Rating: 3/5
Notes:
- Burger: Landmarc serves a well charred, thick, juicy burger that is a little too lightly seasoned. But oh, that nice char flavor from the grill…
- Bun: A hearty white bun with a crusty top that was able to absorb the juice from the burger without falling apart completely.
- Garnish: The burger comes with a healthy dose of pickle slices, a thick slice of tomato, and an even thicker round of red onion and can be topped with American, gruyere, blue, or mozzarella cheese. We both ordered ours with American, which melted nicely across the top of the grilled patty.
- Mess factor: The substantial and juicy burger topped by the extra-thick vegetables made the cloth napkins a requirement.
- Fries: Thick, meaty fries, that were crispy but lacked any seasoning.
- Price: $13 (cheese adds $1).
- Bordeaux: Despite Landmarc’s notorious “bargain” wine list, we had a hard time selecting a wine that didn’t break the $50 mark. Rather than a Bordeaux, we opted for a Burgundy that paired nicely with the hamburger. This 2003 Santenay-Beauregard Premier Cru from Roger Belland was a bold, fruity wine that was very even and just a hint dry. We found this wine thoroughly drinkable.
- Atmosphere: You could take a girl there.
- Overall: Landmarc is the kind of restaurant where you might hope for a really great burger. The décor is modern with dark wood and candle lights. The windows overlook a quiet section of West Broadway. The upstairs dining room is a nice hideaway but downstairs, the open grill behind the bar gives the restaurant a nice smoky smell that primes your appetite for a burger. We had been once before, to celebrate JP’s birthday, and we both had a great dinner. But this time, the hamburger suffered from too many narrow misses to garner a very high mark: the patty was inadequately seasoned; the garnish was cut too thick; the bun wasn’t quite able to stand up to the task; and the fries were devoid of flavor.
October 26th, 2006
DuMont Restaurant
432 Union Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11206
(718) 486-7717
[map] [subway directions]
Rating: 3/5
Notes:
- Burger: While the patty was cooked exactly as we had requested and had the heft and density of a great burger, it wasn’t particularly flavorful – it lacked in seasoning and in the char-grilled taste that we’ve come to look forward to.
- Bun: A nice brioche bun that had good flavor and texture and held together until the last bite.
- Garnish: The sweet and sour pickle slices were the real stars here. On its own, the pickled onion was also quite tasty but did not add much to the flavor experience of the burger. This was a burger that could have benefited from the sharp bite from a raw onion. The bacon is a necessary accompaniment here, bringing a necessary bit of flavor to an somewhat lacking sandwich.
- Mess factor: Pleasantly little mess for such a larger and juicy burger.
- Fries: Thick fries, crunchy on the outside, chewy in the middle and seasoned with parsley and salt. Nice, if not fantastic.
- Price: $12 (with cheese and fries; bacon adds $1.50).
- Bordeaux: We enjoyed a very nice 2001 Moulis-en-Médoc from Château Biston-Brillette. This was a fruity, dry wine made from a blend of about half Cabernet and Merlot. The clean finish went well with the juicy burger, and the flavor of the wine far outpaced the taste of the sandwich.
- Atmosphere: You could take a girl there.
- Overall: We were a little disappointed by this sandwich. It hardly seemed worthy of inspiring its own establishment (DuMont Burger: 314 Bedford, 718-384-6127). It was definitely a high quality patty, just not tasty enough for our palate. The décor had several elements of the bistro inspired New York dining room: Tile floors, a candle-lit room, off-white walls, and a menu written on a chalk board). But, somehow, it didn’t feel like we were sitting at L’Express or one of its clones. Perhaps it was because they chose to write their menu on a chalkboard as opposed to a mirror. Or, maybe it was the music that shuffled between Peter Tosh, Massive Attack and The Clash. No complaints there and one would never hear Hate & War at French Roast. Then again, it could have been the lack of vintage, French advertisements. A fair number of patrons opted to drink and dine in the back garden on this autumn night leaving the front dining room fairly quiet until a bit later. Unfortunately, the nice vibe and great wine weren’t enough to rescue this burger from a “3”.
October 12th, 2006
Barmarché
14 Spring Street (@ Elizabeth)
New York, NY 10012
(212) 219-2399
[map] [subway directions]
Rating: 3/5
Notes:
- Burger: Another fine but somewhat uninspired patty that lost a few points for being overcooked. While we firmly believe the best temperature for cooking a hamburger is medium-rare (and that’s how we request them), both of our burgers arrived medium well, without the slightest hint of pink.
- Bun: A good bun for absorbing (most of) the juices that flowed from this burger, but it lacked anything particularly interesting about its flavor. It was toasted lightly on the outside which gave it a nice crunch and feel.
- Garnish: The burger comes topped with applewood smoked bacon, mushrooms and cheese. We both held off on the mushrooms but loved the smokey, cured flavor of the bacon, which was probably the best part of the meal. On the side came two slices of plum tomato, red onion, iceberg lettuce and a pickle wedge, none of which contributed much to the overall flavor of the sandwich.
- Mess factor: Thanks to the absorbant (but lackluster) bun, no mess factor to consider at all.
- Fries: A+ — second only to the bacon. Crispy on the outside while light and fluffy on the inside. Tossed with fresh garlic that was tasty without being overpowering.
- Price: $13
- Bordeaux: 2003 Chateau Pascaud. Full bodied, able to cleanse the pallet of burger juices and dry enough to make it hardy. One of the better wines we’ve paired with a burger yet.
- Atmosphere: You could definitely take a girl here. In fact, one of us already has.
- Overall: As you can tell from the title of this post, the bacon was the star here. If you like bacon, we recommend getting anything on the menu that includes this smokey, salty treat. The overall burger experience was average, and probably would have dangerously close to falling below average if it weren’t for this delicious topping. The overcooking of the patty did not help at all. Barmarché is nice room that is somewhat dominated by the bar in the front. Subdued lighting, candlelight and a decent soundtrack make for the sort of atmosphere one would expect in NoLiTa. It is worth noting that there are a couple unique tables in the space, one tucked in the back by the window that could seat three or four diners. Another occupies a back corner of the restaurant and can probably seat ten to twelve.
May 20th, 2006
Edward’s
136 West Broadway (Between Thomas & Duane Streets)
New York, NY 10013
(212) 233-6436
[map] [directions]
Rating: 3/5
Notes:
- Burger: Some restaurants take a burger seriously, others put the obligatory hamburger on the menu to serve that portion of their customers who always prefer to order one. Edward’s seems to have found its place in the latter category, with a burger that was simply average — cooked right on, but a plain patty with little seasoning and almost a little too juicy.
- Bun: The best thing to be said about the bun is that it did a great job of capturing the grease, but had little flavor to offer.
- Garnish: Mealy tomato, a few rings of red onion, two or three flavorless pickle slices and one leaf of butter lettuce. In short, nothing to write home about. If you really want something to write about, order the onion frizzles and don’t be shy about piling them on top of your burger (you’ll have plenty to spare).
- Mess factor: A little bit of a mess but not so much that a seasoned professional would ask for an extra napkin.
- Fries: Perfectly cooked, crispy and the right amount of seasoning, if you’re following a diabetic diet.
- Price: ~$13
- Bordeaux: 2000 Chateau Carignan. One of the highlights of the evening, low on the tannins and high on the fruit. Overall, a little less bold than we were expecting. But we drank it to the dregs (literally!) and thoroughly enjoyed it all the way.
- Atmosphere: You could take a girl there.
- Overall: Compared to the other places we’ve reviewed, this was not the best burger — but we would consider coming back here to sample something else on the menu. We sat in the back of the room and, once the kids left, it was a pretty good spot. The downbeat music wasn’t too loud and the canldes lighting up the black and white leather booths and vintage mirrors made for a warm and funky diner atmosphere. Which, along with the onion frizzles and wine, were the standouts of the evening.
March 16th, 2006